Start with a stable setup

Choose a comfortable place with a solid working surface and as much natural light as possible. Mount the camera securely on a tripod or enlarger stand, preferably at a height that lets you work without constantly bending over the table.

Artificial light can also be very useful, especially when natural light is weak. Besides illuminating the shell, it helps the camera focus more reliably. A stable camera and a well-lit subject will eliminate many problems before you even take the picture.

Control the light

A ring flash is one of the easiest ways to obtain quick and fairly uniform illumination. You can also use a sheet of white paper, card or aluminum foil as a simple reflector to soften shadows and direct more natural light onto the specimen.

Watch the angle of the reflector carefully. Light reflected directly into the lens can create glare and may also interfere with autofocus. Shiny shells are particularly unforgiving, so small changes in the position of the light can make a surprisingly large difference.

Lift the shell from the background

A small support made from wire or similar material can hold the shell slightly above the background. Fix the wire firmly into a piece of wood and use a very small amount of removable putty to keep the specimen in position.

This simple trick separates the shell from the background, softens the shadow and makes the background easier to blur or remove later. Make the support strong enough for heavier specimens, but keep as little of it visible as possible.

Choose the background carefully

Placing a shell directly on the background often produces a hard, distracting shadow. Raising the specimen usually gives a cleaner result. Background color also matters: a contrasting color can make the outline of the shell easier to separate, but glossy shells may reflect that color onto their surface.

For many specimens, black velvet gives an excellent neutral background because it absorbs light. For very dark shells, plain white paper can work better. There is no single background that suits every specimen, so choose one according to the shell's color, gloss and transparency.

Edit only what is necessary

A photograph sent casually to a friend may need almost no editing. Images intended for a website, catalogue or publication usually benefit from some finishing work: cleaning the background, adjusting the crop and size, and making modest corrections to brightness, levels or color.

We use Photoshop®, although many other programs can do the same basic work. The important point is to begin with the best possible original photograph. Correcting a poor image takes much longer than taking a good one in the first place — especially when you are processing hundreds of shells.

Remember that colors also vary between monitors and devices. Aim for a natural and faithful result rather than trying to make an image look identical on every screen.

A few more digital photography tips

Photograph at a sufficiently high resolution to preserve a useful master file, particularly if the image may later be printed or enlarged. Storage is inexpensive today, so there is little reason to discard useful detail in the original photograph.

Use a consistent system for backgrounds and file names. At Femorale we identify photographs by specimen ID number, which makes the original files easy to locate. For a private collection, the species name or catalogue number can serve the same purpose.

Begin with a simple setup and experiment as you become more familiar with your camera and photo editor. If an original image is badly exposed or out of focus, take it again rather than spending too much time trying to rescue it. Digital photography makes another attempt virtually free.

Most importantly, experiment. Small changes in lighting, height, background and camera position can produce very different results, and experience is still the best way to discover what works for you.