ECUADOR:
A NEW ADVENTURE
By
José
Coltro
Jr.
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Marcus and I had
been Ecuador before,
in 1990 and 1995.
Both trips were
really great: we
found a friendly
country, unexplored
coast, and lots
of shells. Ecuador
is a great shelling
destination.
Last August,
we decided to
travel to Ecuador
again. We planned
the trip with
the help of our
great friend,
Dr. Gustavo Noboa,
who today is
the Ecuador Vice-President.
We decided to
try new spots
together with
two of our divers:
our friends Alfred
Bodart and Gilmar
Candido. Alfredo
Bodart is our
buddy since 1995
and has been
along on all
our shelling
trips; he is
a great diver
and a fantastic
shell hunter.
A few days before
the trip, we
had a meeting
with the divers
and explained
to them which
shells we wanted
most: Thais planospira,
Cymatium tigrinum,
and the very
rare Colubraria
procera.
I had found some
specimens of
Thais planospira
in 1995 around
Isla de la Plata.
Alfredo and the
others didn't
find any at that
time because
they only dived
and only I had
snorkeled; I
found them just
in the splash
zone, among huge
rocks.
In 1995, Alfredo
found a single
gorgeous Cymatium
tigrinum off
Isla de la Plata.
The shell was
so beautiful
that I kept it
for our personal
collection (today
it is in the
collection of
our friend Ricardo
Guerrini).
The Colubraria
procera was the
species I most
wanted. I had
read an article
in "American
Conchologist"
[vol.16(3), pp
8-9 December
1988], where
Donald Shasky
reported three
specimens from
Isla de la Plata
and I had tried
to find this
shell in 1995.
We had a great
dive around the
island but we
couldn't find
any trace of
the species.
We started our
trip with a flight
to Quito where
we met Dr. Noboa.
He warned us
about the problems
of most of the
Ecuadorian roads.
We left Quito
for Esmeraldas,
on the north
coast. We had
never been there,
and the trip
going down the
Andes showed
us just a little
of the huge transportation
problems in Ecuador
caused by the
rains brought
on by "El Niño".
The rain destroyed
most all of the
bridges. Large
parts of the
roads disappeared.
We arrived near
Esmeraldas and
went in the direction
of the beach.
Just south of
Esmeraldas, there
are many villages
with good hotels
or bed and bath
places. Unfortunately,
we arrived during
the last weekend
of school vacation
and most of the
hotels were completely
full. After hours
of looking for
a place and totally
tired, we stopped
in a nice restaurant
in the village
of Sua and the
owner, a German
lady, told us
that she had
some rooms for
rent. We had
an unexpected
fantastic dinner
and went to our
room-small with
four beds, no
hot water, but
clean.
On the next morning,
we started to contact
local people and
met Miguel who was
to be our guide
for the next three
days. He introduced
us to lobster divers
and we rented their
boat to go 45 km
offshore to dive
on the top of a
seamount. Rather,
we rented the boat
for Bodart and Gilmar.
We stayed looking
for shells with
the fishermen. We
found some nice
muricids, such as
Hexaplex radix and
Phyllonotus brassica.
Bodart and Gilmar
left for diving
at 7 a.m. and
returned at 5
p.m. They found
lots of shells,
but the most
exciting were
five Colubraria
procera!
Finally, I got
some of this
fantastic species.
Gilmar told me
that the first
shell he found
was that shell
- and it was
the largest specimen
ever found! Bodart
complained a
lot about the
dive - the sea
was terrible
with huge waves.
We decided to
leave for Bahia
de Caraquez.
But the way to
Bahia de Caraquez
was so terrible
that we changed
our destination
to Puerto Lopez
to try to dive
at Isla de la
Plata.
In 1995, my trip
to Isla de la
Plata had been
so pleasant that
I decided to
go along. Everybody
woke up very
early and we
left Puerto Lopez
for the island.
Normally, it
takes one hour
by boat, but
the sea was so
terrible that
took over 2 hours
and we almost
got lost due
to the fog!
The boat had
a compressor
(hooka) for two,
Marcus rented
complete diving
equipment and
I decided to
snorkel to look
for Thais planospira.
It was impossible,
the waves were
so huge and strong
that I couldn't
stop at the place
were I found
the shells 4
years earlier.
We moved to the
other side of
the island and
found some relatively
calm water. I
tried to look
for Thais but
couldn't find
a single specimen.
The people from
the boat told
me that most
of the time the
rocks where I
found the Thais
always had huge
and strong waves.
It seems that
I had a special
day four years
ago, and this
stupid species
lives only in
this habitat!
On the way back,
Marcus and I
regretted a lot
about this journey!
It took another
two hours with
huge waves, rain,
cold weather,
and no Thais
planospira. We
decided to let
our divers continue
their mission
and we started
to contact the
fishermen.
On the following
day, the sea
was worse than
before and the
divers stayed
most of the time
around Isla Salango,
a large Island
just half a kilometer
from the coast.
They didn't find
much unusual
material.
On the third
day there, they
decided to try
Isla de la Plata
again. This time,
they had success.
They found some
- not many -
Thais planospira.
The side where
there had been
huge waves had
been calm, and
they were able
to find about
17 specimens.
They found other
species, but
no Cymatium tigrinum.
The next day, the
sea started again
with huge waves
and the dive was
canceled. We moved
to Punta Blanca
and started with
some snorkeling
on offshore rocks.
We found Conus princeps
lineolatus among
other species. We
were able to snorkel
only two days because
the sea was terrible.
We gave up snorkeling
and diving and started
to contact fishermen.
They didn't have
many different species-mostly
broken shells, but
we found few good
ones. We also looked
for landshells and
found three nice
forms of Porphyrobaphe
iostoma, including
one P. iostoma phasianella
that could be a
different species.
To find this form,
I had to drive on
a terrible wet road;
I had a small accident-nothing
serious. We left
the coast going
from Guayaquil to
Quito. The road
crosses a huge banana
farm area at the
foot of the Andes.
We stopped on the
way when we saw
a group of locals
with nice colorful
clothes. Marcus
and Bodart went
to take pictures
and I went to look
for landshells.
Suddenly, Marcus
started to call
me back to the car
as fast as possible:
all the locals saw
Marcus taking pictures
and they started
to run after Marcus
asking "dollar,
dollar by the photo"!
There were more
than 50 people doing
that. We went to
the car and two
or three arrived
near the car and
started to smash
the car. I drove
as fast I could!
We stopped at
Riobamba, a nice
historical city
at 3,000 meters
elevation. We
slept there,
and the next
day arrived in
Quito. There,
we packed our
shells - some
with a terrible
smell. We did
that inside a
recently opened
Marriott Hotel!
Our flight was
late in the afternoon
and we had the
entire morning
to visit historical
downtown Quito.
This city has
great churches,
museums, and
historical buildings-and
fantastic huge
mountains around
it, including
the active volcano
Pichincha. It
is a place that
deserves several
days for a visit.
We said goodbye
to Dr. Noboa
and went to the
airport. There,
our luggage smelled
so bad that I
had to explain
to the airline
manager what
we had. After
considerable
discussion, he
accepted the
luggage. We had
a long flight
back home - with
stops in Guyaquil
and Manaus (middle
of Amazon forest).
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