| ECUADOR: 
                              A NEW ADVENTURE 
                              By 
                              José 
                              Coltro 
                              Jr. 
                            | 
                           
                         
                      
                      
                      
                     Marcus and I had 
                     been Ecuador before, 
                     in 1990 and 1995. 
                     Both trips were 
                     really great: we 
                     found a friendly 
                     country, unexplored 
                     coast, and lots 
                     of shells. Ecuador 
                     is a great shelling 
                     destination. 
                      Last August, 
                        we decided to 
                        travel to Ecuador 
                        again. We planned 
                        the trip with 
                        the help of our 
                        great friend, 
                        Dr. Gustavo Noboa, 
                        who today is 
                        the Ecuador Vice-President. 
                      
                     We decided to 
                        try new spots 
                        together with 
                        two of our divers: 
                        our friends Alfred 
                        Bodart and Gilmar 
                        Candido. Alfredo 
                        Bodart is our 
                        buddy since 1995 
                        and has been 
                        along on all 
                        our shelling 
                        trips; he is 
                        a great diver 
                        and a fantastic 
                        shell hunter. 
                     A few days before 
                        the trip, we 
                        had a meeting 
                        with the divers 
                        and explained 
                        to them which 
                        shells we wanted 
                        most: Thais planospira, 
                        Cymatium tigrinum, 
                        and the very 
                        rare Colubraria 
                        procera. 
                     I had found some 
                        specimens of 
                        Thais planospira 
                        in 1995 around 
                        Isla de la Plata. 
                        Alfredo and the 
                        others didn't 
                        find any at that 
                        time because 
                        they only dived 
                        and only I had 
                        snorkeled; I 
                        found them just 
                        in the splash 
                        zone, among huge 
                        rocks. 
                     In 1995, Alfredo 
                        found a single 
                        gorgeous Cymatium 
                        tigrinum off 
                        Isla de la Plata. 
                        The shell was 
                        so beautiful 
                        that I kept it 
                        for our personal 
                        collection (today 
                        it is in the 
                        collection of 
                        our friend Ricardo 
                        Guerrini).  
                     The Colubraria 
                        procera was the 
                        species I most 
                        wanted. I had 
                        read an article 
                        in "American 
                        Conchologist" 
                        [vol.16(3), pp 
                        8-9 December 
                        1988], where 
                        Donald Shasky 
                        reported three 
                        specimens from 
                        Isla de la Plata 
                        and I had tried 
                        to find this 
                        shell in 1995. 
                        We had a great 
                        dive around the 
                        island but we 
                        couldn't find 
                        any trace of 
                        the species. 
                     We started our 
                        trip with a flight 
                        to Quito where 
                        we met Dr. Noboa. 
                        He warned us 
                        about the problems 
                        of most of the 
                        Ecuadorian roads. 
                        We left Quito 
                        for Esmeraldas, 
                        on the north 
                        coast. We had 
                        never been there, 
                        and the trip 
                        going down the 
                        Andes showed 
                        us just a little 
                        of the huge transportation 
                        problems in Ecuador 
                        caused by the 
                        rains brought 
                        on by "El Niño". 
                        The rain destroyed 
                        most all of the 
                        bridges. Large 
                        parts of the 
                        roads disappeared. 
                     We arrived near 
                        Esmeraldas and 
                        went in the direction 
                        of the beach. 
                        Just south of 
                        Esmeraldas, there 
                        are many villages 
                        with good hotels 
                        or bed and bath 
                        places. Unfortunately, 
                        we arrived during 
                        the last weekend 
                        of school vacation 
                        and most of the 
                        hotels were completely 
                        full. After hours 
                        of looking for 
                        a place and totally 
                        tired, we stopped 
                        in a nice restaurant 
                        in the village 
                        of Sua and the 
                        owner, a German 
                        lady, told us 
                        that she had 
                        some rooms for 
                        rent. We had 
                        an unexpected 
                        fantastic dinner 
                        and went to our 
                        room-small with 
                        four beds, no 
                        hot water, but 
                        clean. 
                      
                      
                     On the next morning, 
                     we started to contact 
                     local people and 
                     met Miguel who was 
                     to be our guide 
                     for the next three 
                     days. He introduced 
                     us to lobster divers 
                     and we rented their 
                     boat to go 45 km 
                     offshore to dive 
                     on the top of a 
                     seamount. Rather, 
                     we rented the boat 
                     for Bodart and Gilmar. 
                     We stayed looking 
                     for shells with 
                     the fishermen. We 
                     found some nice 
                     muricids, such as 
                     Hexaplex radix and 
                     Phyllonotus brassica. 
                     Bodart and Gilmar 
                        left for diving 
                        at 7 a.m. and 
                        returned at 5 
                        p.m. They found 
                        lots of shells, 
                        but the most 
                        exciting were 
                        five Colubraria 
                        procera! 
                     Finally, I got 
                        some of this 
                        fantastic species. 
                        Gilmar told me 
                        that the first 
                        shell he found 
                        was that shell 
                        - and it was 
                        the largest specimen 
                        ever found! Bodart 
                        complained a 
                        lot about the 
                        dive - the sea 
                        was terrible 
                        with huge waves. 
                     We decided to 
                        leave for Bahia 
                        de Caraquez. 
                        But the way to 
                        Bahia de Caraquez 
                        was so terrible 
                        that we changed 
                        our destination 
                        to Puerto Lopez 
                        to try to dive 
                        at Isla de la 
                        Plata. 
                     In 1995, my trip 
                        to Isla de la 
                        Plata had been 
                        so pleasant that 
                        I decided to 
                        go along. Everybody 
                        woke up very 
                        early and we 
                        left Puerto Lopez 
                        for the island. 
                        Normally, it 
                        takes one hour 
                        by boat, but 
                        the sea was so 
                        terrible that 
                        took over 2 hours 
                        and we almost 
                        got lost due 
                        to the fog! 
                      The boat had 
                        a compressor 
                        (hooka) for two, 
                        Marcus rented 
                        complete diving 
                        equipment and 
                        I decided to 
                        snorkel to look 
                        for Thais planospira. 
                        It was impossible, 
                        the waves were 
                        so huge and strong 
                        that I couldn't 
                        stop at the place 
                        were I found 
                        the shells 4 
                        years earlier. 
                        We moved to the 
                        other side of 
                        the island and 
                        found some relatively 
                        calm water. I 
                        tried to look 
                        for Thais but 
                        couldn't find 
                        a single specimen. 
                        The people from 
                        the boat told 
                        me that most 
                        of the time the 
                        rocks where I 
                        found the Thais 
                        always had huge 
                        and strong waves. 
                        It seems that 
                        I had a special 
                        day four years 
                        ago, and this 
                        stupid species 
                        lives only in 
                        this habitat! 
                        On the way back, 
                        Marcus and I 
                        regretted a lot 
                        about this journey! 
                        It took another 
                        two hours with 
                        huge waves, rain, 
                        cold weather, 
                        and no Thais 
                        planospira. We 
                        decided to let 
                        our divers continue 
                        their mission 
                        and we started 
                        to contact the 
                        fishermen. 
                      On the following 
                        day, the sea 
                        was worse than 
                        before and the 
                        divers stayed 
                        most of the time 
                        around Isla Salango, 
                        a large Island 
                        just half a kilometer 
                        from the coast. 
                        They didn't find 
                        much unusual 
                        material. 
                     On the third 
                        day there, they 
                        decided to try 
                        Isla de la Plata 
                        again. This time, 
                        they had success. 
                        They found some 
                        - not many - 
                        Thais planospira. 
                        The side where 
                        there had been 
                        huge waves had 
                        been calm, and 
                        they were able 
                        to find about 
                        17 specimens. 
                        They found other 
                        species, but 
                        no Cymatium tigrinum. 
                     
                      
                     The next day, the 
                     sea started again 
                     with huge waves 
                     and the dive was 
                     canceled. We moved 
                     to Punta Blanca 
                     and started with 
                     some snorkeling 
                     on offshore rocks. 
                     We found Conus princeps 
                     lineolatus among 
                     other species. We 
                     were able to snorkel 
                     only two days because 
                     the sea was terrible. 
                     We gave up snorkeling 
                     and diving and started 
                     to contact fishermen. 
                     They didn't have 
                     many different species-mostly 
                     broken shells, but 
                     we found few good 
                     ones. We also looked 
                     for landshells and 
                     found three nice 
                     forms of Porphyrobaphe 
                     iostoma, including 
                     one P. iostoma phasianella 
                     that could be a 
                     different species. 
                     To find this form, 
                     I had to drive on 
                     a terrible wet road; 
                     I had a small accident-nothing 
                     serious. We left 
                     the coast going 
                     from Guayaquil to 
                     Quito. The road 
                     crosses a huge banana 
                     farm area at the 
                     foot of the Andes. 
                     We stopped on the 
                     way when we saw 
                     a group of locals 
                     with nice colorful 
                     clothes. Marcus 
                     and Bodart went 
                     to take pictures 
                     and I went to look 
                     for landshells. 
                     Suddenly, Marcus 
                     started to call 
                     me back to the car 
                     as fast as possible: 
                     all the locals saw 
                     Marcus taking pictures 
                     and they started 
                     to run after Marcus 
                     asking "dollar, 
                     dollar by the photo"! 
                     There were more 
                     than 50 people doing 
                     that. We went to 
                     the car and two 
                     or three arrived 
                     near the car and 
                     started to smash 
                     the car. I drove 
                     as fast I could! 
                     We stopped at 
                        Riobamba, a nice 
                        historical city 
                        at 3,000 meters 
                        elevation. We 
                        slept there, 
                        and the next 
                        day arrived in 
                        Quito. There, 
                        we packed our 
                        shells - some 
                        with a terrible 
                        smell. We did 
                        that inside a 
                        recently opened 
                        Marriott Hotel! 
                     Our flight was 
                        late in the afternoon 
                        and we had the 
                        entire morning 
                        to visit historical 
                        downtown Quito. 
                        This city has 
                        great churches, 
                        museums, and 
                        historical buildings-and 
                        fantastic huge 
                        mountains around 
                        it, including 
                        the active volcano 
                        Pichincha. It 
                        is a place that 
                        deserves several 
                        days for a visit. 
                     We said goodbye 
                        to Dr. Noboa 
                        and went to the 
                        airport. There, 
                        our luggage smelled 
                        so bad that I 
                        had to explain 
                        to the airline 
                        manager what 
                        we had. After 
                        considerable 
                        discussion, he 
                        accepted the 
                        luggage. We had 
                        a long flight 
                        back home - with 
                        stops in Guyaquil 
                        and Manaus (middle 
                        of Amazon forest). 
                     
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